Thursday, September 1, 2011

Historic Surf

A L O H A !

Click on these photos to REALLY see them!
There is a strange mist
before Diamond Head: 
Salty Sea Spray!

Large waves are breaking
just outside of the harbor.

Conditions for those
who have their own equipment,
and who know these waters.

Not for visitors or beginners. 
See the tiny humans at far left?
Yes, Waikiki is known for gentle learners-surf,
but in the Summer 
(When Winter in the South Pacific
sends storm energy our way)
the South Shore can Go OFF!
These are historic levels.  
We're all spoiled by videos & shots 
of tiny men and giant waves,
but this is definitely respectable surf 
despite my tiny lenses and modest skills.

Surf lesson?!
What is this instructor thinking?
(Yes, they went out)

First: Stretch and look

" Sometimes in the morning, 
when it's a good surf, 
I go out there, 
and I don't feel like it's a bad world. "
Kary Mullis

" Every day of the year
where the water is 76, day and night, 
and the waves roll high,
I take my sled, without runners,
and coast down the face of the big waves
that roll in at Waikiki.  "

Duke Kahanamoku
Father of Modern Surfing 

they're not all men!

" You can’t stop the waves, 

but you can learn to surf. "

Jon Kabat-Zinn

“Every young sculptor seems to think that
 he must give the world some specimen
 of indecorous womanhood,
 and call it Eve, Venus, a Nymph,
 or any name
 that may apologize
 for a lack of decent clothing.”

 Nathaniel Hawthorne

They're NOT all kids either!

Poseidon was honored by sailors
who relied on him
for safe passage upon his seas.

He lived on the ocean floor
in a palace made of coral and gems,
  and drove a chariot
pulled by sea horses.

  A capricious and moody divinity, 
when he was in a good temper,
Poseidon created new lands
and calm seas.

When his mood turned angry,
  He struck the ground with his great trident 
causing water spouts & earthquakes, 
ship wrecks, drownings,

I want to thank my 'Stand In' 
Anonymous Middle Aged Woman 
for helping me get this shot
of we who stand on the beach,
watch, and