Thursday, September 1, 2011

Historic Surf

A L O H A !
 






Click on these photos to REALLY see them!
There is a strange mist
before Diamond Head: 
Salty Sea Spray!






Large waves are breaking
just outside of the harbor.






Conditions for those
who have their own equipment,
and who know these waters.






Not for visitors or beginners. 
See the tiny humans at far left?
Yes, Waikiki is known for gentle learners-surf,
but in the Summer 
(When Winter in the South Pacific
sends storm energy our way)
the South Shore can Go OFF!
These are historic levels.  
We're all spoiled by videos & shots 
of tiny men and giant waves,
but this is definitely respectable surf 
despite my tiny lenses and modest skills.




Surf lesson?!
What is this instructor thinking?
(Yes, they went out)








First: Stretch and look

" Sometimes in the morning, 
when it's a good surf, 
I go out there, 
and I don't feel like it's a bad world. "
 
Kary Mullis







" Every day of the year
where the water is 76, day and night, 
and the waves roll high,
I take my sled, without runners,
and coast down the face of the big waves
that roll in at Waikiki.  "

Duke Kahanamoku
Father of Modern Surfing 













No, 
they're not all men!


" You can’t stop the waves, 

but you can learn to surf. "





Jon Kabat-Zinn







“Every young sculptor seems to think that
 he must give the world some specimen
 of indecorous womanhood,
 and call it Eve, Venus, a Nymph,
 or any name
 that may apologize
 for a lack of decent clothing.”


 Nathaniel Hawthorne






They're NOT all kids either!

Poseidon was honored by sailors
who relied on him
for safe passage upon his seas.

He lived on the ocean floor
in a palace made of coral and gems,
  and drove a chariot
pulled by sea horses.

  A capricious and moody divinity, 
when he was in a good temper,
Poseidon created new lands
and calm seas.

When his mood turned angry,
  He struck the ground with his great trident 
causing water spouts & earthquakes, 
ship wrecks, drownings,
disaster!











I want to thank my 'Stand In' 
Anonymous Middle Aged Woman 
for helping me get this shot
of we who stand on the beach,
watch, and
SHOOT!






32 comments:

Lynn said...

That must be exciting to watch! When I was in Malibu a few years ago, I sat on the beach and watched the surfers. They kept their boards chained to themselves by ankle bracelets.

Beautiful photos. Thank you -

Lisa said...

And I love the photos. They are gorgeous. And the waves do look scary to folks like me but must be aappealing to the surfers.

Anonymous said...

Now I want to take a vacation (been to Maui twice). Maybe next year. Thanks for the pics. I can always dream I'm there right now.

Joop Zand said...

It's very nice there on the beaches....good pictures Cloudia.

Charles Gramlich said...

Looks like they're all having fun. I envy them a bit.

Betty Manousos said...

aloha, my friend!

beautiful photos, as usual; i love all of them.

i also love watching surfers. i'm amazed at their surfing abilities, riding the big waves with their long-boards...seems to be a lot of fun.

betty xx

Hilary said...

One day, I'd love to see Hawaii in person. The surfing looks like such fun to watch.. and probably to do. Great photos.

FilipBlog said...

These are serious waves.

Greetings,
Filip

Tracy Jo said...

So beautiful! Now I want a vacation. Great shots!

Teresa said...

Excellent post, Cloudia. I loved the pictures and learning about surfing.

I was also struck by how many members of the Greek pantheon seem to have deserted Greece and taken up surfing at Waikiki. One reason for the economic problems in Greece, perhaps? ;-)

Akelamalu said...

Surfers - WOW!

Indrani said...

Nice beach shots.

bobbybegood1 said...

I would die to live in Hawaii. I recently heard that all is not pretty there, shame. Someone told me that they acutally have ghettos/slum areas in Hawaii? I couldn't believe it. Can you clear up the matter Cloudia? Cheers!!

bobbybegood1 said...

Oh, yes, BEAUTIFUL, GORGEOUS, STUNNING photos! Cheers!!

Full-On-Forward said...

GREAT GREAT Post my dear! I can feel the Ocean's spray!

I am again having trouble with Blogger--are you able to see this?

HFTEC,

John

Windsmoke. said...

Bonza photos, you definitely have monster waves in your neck of the woods :-).

Anonymous said...

Energy felt must be amazing.

Please have you all a nice Friday.

Cloudia said...

thanks friends!

Yes, we see you, John.

and yes, unfortunately there are depressed areas, poverty and homeless even here in Hawaii...

goatman said...

I'm there . . . wish!

SandyCarlson said...

Such beautiful bodies ready to enjoy the wonder of the sea. Just wonderful stuff. The beach makes everyone beautiful. Perhaps because we find ourselves at peace there.

Kavita Saharia said...

I could hear the sea waves and feel the water and sand on my feet.Thanks for this awesome post .Aloha.

Elephant's Child said...

A skill I never learned and now probably never will. But thank you so much for taking me down to the beach.

Anonymous said...

Wonderful action packed shots! I can feel the ocean spray from here.

Commander Zaius said...

Did a little surfing when I was younger but those waves would freak me out.

RONW said...

yea, the currents get powerful with higher surf. It's deceiving but with Waikiki beach's shallow waters the currents can sweep you laterally or out, real quick, with the surfboard that you fell off no where in sight.

Cloudia said...

Thanks friends!!!

magiceye said...

lovely post!

namaste /\ from mumbai
aloha!!

PerthDailyPhoto said...

If I thought surfing would give me a 'derriere' like that, maybe....nah only kidding. I worry enough for my son who is a surfer every time he goes out! He's surfed Hawaii too, loved it! Excellent post Cloudia, hope you have a cool weekend!!

Birdman said...

Check out my 'hawaiian blizzard' today. I was thinking of you... hahahaha

nazelet said...

wonderful photos. I love to wath surfers, their power and concentration is amazing. i love both shots of the goddesses returning to their water.

and this:" You can’t stop the waves,

but you can learn to surf. "

Jon Kabat-Zinn

perfect.

Dianne said...

I love to watch surfers
doesn't happen often up here
they were surfing during the hurricane which is just plain dumb

all those surfers are so beautiful!

and I love the last shot :)

Cloudia said...

Jolly Thanks!