Historic Surf

A L O H A !

 

Click on these photos to REALLY see them!

There is a strange mist

before Diamond Head: 

Salty Sea Spray!

Large waves are breaking

just outside of the harbor.

Conditions for those

who have their own equipment,

and who know these waters.

Not for visitors or beginners. 

See the tiny humans at far left?

Yes, Waikiki is known for gentle learners-surf,

but in the Summer 

(When Winter in the South Pacific

sends storm energy our way)

the South Shore can Go OFF!

These are historic levels.  

We're all spoiled by videos & shots 

of tiny men and giant waves,

but this is definitely respectable surf 

despite my tiny lenses and modest skills.

Surf lesson?!

What is this instructor thinking?

(Yes, they went out)

First: Stretch and look

" Sometimes in the morning, 

when it's a good surf, 

I go out there, 

and I don't feel like it's a bad world. "

 

Kary Mullis

" Every day of the year

where the water is 76, day and night, 

and the waves roll high,

I take my sled, without runners,

and coast down the face of the big waves

that roll in at Waikiki.  "

Duke Kahanamoku

Father of Modern Surfing 

No, 

they're not all men!

" You can’t stop the waves, 

but you can learn to surf. "

Jon Kabat-Zinn

“Every young sculptor seems to think that
 he must give the world some specimen
 of indecorous womanhood,
 and call it Eve, Venus, a Nymph,
 or any name
 that may apologize
 for a lack of decent clothing.”


 Nathaniel Hawthorne

They're NOT all kids either!

Poseidon was honored by sailors

who relied on him

for safe passage upon his seas.

He lived on the ocean floor

in a palace made of coral and gems,

  and drove a chariot

pulled by sea horses.

  A capricious and moody divinity, 

when he was in a good temper,

Poseidon created new lands

and calm seas.

When his mood turned angry,

  He struck the ground with his great trident 

causing water spouts & earthquakes, 

ship wrecks, drownings,

disaster!

I want to thank my 'Stand In' 

Anonymous Middle Aged Woman 

for helping me get this shot

of we who stand on the beach,

watch, and

SHOOT!